Campania

Naples is a bit like a merry-go-round spinning at very high speed. It takes a day to adapt to its rhythms and a lifetime to forget all its charm. On the other hand, as locals use to say, “see Naples and then you can die”, because your eyes are totally filled with beauty. One must be prepared to leave a “piezz ‘e core” (a piece of heart) in this city.  

Naples would not be Naples without its contrasts. Between the sumptuous architecture of the historic centre creep the lively alleyways of the lower districts, with ancient buildings with peeling façades. Like the Rione Sanità, the district where Totò was born, modestly, where skulls are passionately worshipped, and the underground passages hide catacombs of inestimable value. These are genuine neighbourhoods that clash with the aristocratic ones like the Vomero, but which are undergoing cultural and urban regeneration. 

A neo-melodic song or a piece by some local rapper, as well as the theatricality and high voices of the Neapolitans are the city’s soundtrack. Local people are used to improvisation, always ready to welcome, tell and praise this land, in all its nuances. Neapolitans are witty and spiritual people, who live ardently on their traditions, suggestive popular beliefs, and religious fervour; and religion also includes football. After all, Maradona left a strong mark on Naples, and the mano de Dios still lives on in the murals, in the T-shirts hanging from market stalls, in the votive shrines and, above all, in the hearts of its fans. 

In this area, one is spoilt for choice. There is much more than Caserta and Naples. Looking at the horizon from the city of Pulcinella, in the foreground is the placid Vesuvius, further on three rocky silhouettes emerge from the saturated blue of the sea. It seems that Capri, Ischia, and Procida, each with its own character, have made an eternal pact with the sun and the mild climate, which represent the lifeblood of the luxuriant nature that adorns them all year round. And there they stand, basking in their breath-taking beauty. 

Returning to the inland, one cannot help but think of Sorrento – where the sea sparkles and the air is scented with salt and lemon – the Amalfi Coast and its hilltop and colourful villages, secret coves, unique views, and cobalt sea. Then there is the Campania felix rich in of archaeological sites, including Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Paestum, which tell about the fascinating and busy lives of the ancient Romans. Finally, the visit ends with a gem: the Cilento, a UNESCO World Heritage National Park, characterised by secluded inlets and caves that reveal submerged worlds, long stretches of sand, a clear, blue sea, and villages that seem to be frozen in the past, just a step away from the future.