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Rome is grandiose and amazing.
Whether it’s the Trevi Fountain in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, the Colosseum, the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, the aqueducts of the Appian Way, the parade of galleries in the Vatican Museums, or the astonishing symmetry of the colonnade of St Peter’s, everything is majestic here. However, there are less striking places that deserve to be discovered, such as a small temple on the Janiculum or a refined Japanese garden. All one needs to do is let himself go, and the city will do the rest.
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The Roman Neighbourhoods, from Classical to Underground
What can one say about the kaleidoscope of Roman neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct identity? And about the daily lives of the inhabitants, so influenced by the district they live in, with their ritual gestures that they wouldn’t give up for anything in the world?
Those who live in the centre have their morning coffee in Piazza Farnese, while the inhabitants of the Monti neighbourhood could not do without the little flowered piazzas and the boutiques of young designers. In Trastevere, which embodies the soul of Paris’s Left Bank (even if it’s on the right bank of the Tiber), it’s always the right time for a glass of something, not to mention that it’s a photogenic location for a dinner of pasta all’amatriciana or cacio e pepe in a pleasant, convivial trattoria.
And Pigneto: a bit far from the heart of town but at seventh place in the list of the coolest districts of Europe, so much so that its inhabitants find little to envy in London or Paris as a crossroads of culture, ethnic diversity, and gastronomy. Who knows what its habitué Pier Paolo Pasolini would say, having chosen it for his first film, Accattone?
Students continue to meet up in the neighbourhood of San Lorenzo, with its incurably bohemian atmosphere. It now has a new name: SA.L.A.D., which stands for San Lorenzo art district, almost a mixed salad of art, with a surprising number of studios, galleries, and other spaces devoted to culture. Its other dishevelled brothers are the underground Ostiense and Testaccio. The first boasts masterpieces of street art but also the newest branch of the Capitoline Museums in a former power plant. The second, the former slaughterhouse district, holds the record as the centre of gastronomy, with a huge number of high-quality restaurants and a market. Here design and fruit and vegetable stands merge, and there is an almost inexhaustible supply of street food, ranging from a slice of pizza to a rice ball or breaded fried anchovies.
In old Garbatella, on the other hand, one ventures into narrow streets and lanes where one’s gaze continually encounters carefully tended gardens, secret courtyards, and façades with laundry drying in the sun. A model working-class version of a garden-city, which makes it irresistible to young actors and artists.
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